Valence, a scenic and older city, lies pretty much South on the Eastern part of France. With its 65,000 inhabitants, it’s close to Switzerland and Italy (close enough for day trips) and it is in the crossroads of the North-South and West-East traffic.
It was, once upon a time, a major colony for Rome (121 BC) thanks to its strategic position for the trade routes.
Valence also has a very large Armenian community living here since the 1920’s after the genocide. You will find many shops and restaurants (even an Armenian church) offering Armenian food.
On one side is the Rhone river, and a but further on you will see big hills and mountains. On top of the first hill you will find the ruins of a castle, Chateau de Crussol
Cathedral
Inside the old city centre (called “Vieux Valence”), marked by small cobblestone roads, you will find one of the more imposing buildings, the cathedral. Named “Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence“, it was built in the 11th century.
It has had quite an history over the centuries. First of all, it was named after one of the first bishops (one of the first bishops in the world ever), Apollinaire, who worked here in the 6th century. During the War of Religions (1562 to 1598), it was badly damaged but rebuilt over the centuries.
Pope Pius VI was imprisoned in Valence and even died here in 1799.
Cathedral ‘Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence’
Side of the Cathedral ‘Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence’
Main hall of the Cathedral ‘Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence’
Bishop’s seat in the Cathedral ‘Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence’
Statue in memory of Bishop Charles-Pierre-Francois Cotton in the Cathedral of Valence
Priests seating area in the Cathedral ‘Cathedrale Saint-Apollinaire de Valence’This city/town forms part of one of the French legs of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route.
Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage routes
Valence Museum, Art & Archaeology
Right next to the cathedral is a very good and well appointed museum. The museum is housed in the former Bishop’s Palace, and its main displays (apart from temporary displays) are all about art and archaeology.
Rich with some 20,000 objects, the museum is divided into 2 sections; archaeology (from prehistoric times to present day) and art.
The archaeology section has a lot of important objects from the Roman times. All they had to do was dig in the gardens to come up with that. The museum also has on display objects from the Bishop’s time living in this palace, including his own private chapel.
The Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Rear of the Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Art in the Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Paintings in the Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Roman mosaic in the Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Entrance to former Bishop private chapel in the Valence museum of archaeology and art building
Different levels in the Valence museum of archaeology and art buildingFor more information about this museum, click here (in French unfortunately)
The Streets of Valence
The streets of Valence, particularly the old city centre (“Vieux Valence”) are mostly very narrow, and the streets are made out of cobblestones.
Alongside the old houses, you will find many shops and restaurants. There are quite a lot of cafes with outside terraces to enjoy when the weather is mild.
Narrow cobblestone roads in Valence
Cafes and terraces in the old city centre of Valence
Narrow cobblestone streets in ValenceBuildings
Taking a stroll through these narrow streets in Valence will allow you to see some amazing buildings. Most of them have survived over the centuries, and many of them have been worked with an amazing detail.
One of the more special houses, and one that tops the list of things to see, is the “Maison des Tetes” (the House of Heads). No, not to worry, it’s not heads that have been cut off during the French revolution, but heads made out of stone. The house was built between in 1528 by Antoine de Dorne, Professor at the University, and the facade has several heads representing the winds, fortune, time and even theology.
Even inside the hallway and courtyard you will find many heads.
The House of Heads (Maison des Tetes) in Valence
Hallway’s ceiling in the House of Heads (Maison des Tetes) in Valence
Courtyard in the House of Heads (Maison des Tetes) in ValenceBut it’s not only this building that stands out. Here are a few others that you can encounter during your walks.
Decorated building in Valence
Decorated apartments in Valence
Theatre building in Valence
Decorated building in Valence
Archway building in Valence
City Hall (Mairie) of Valence
Building in ValenceProtestant Saint-Ruf temple
The Saint-Ruf temple used to be a catholic church, but converted to a protestant temple in 1806. The building itself was built in the year 1100.
Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence church
And like with almost any self-respecting town or city in France, there is a food market square (and as usual, there’s a church next to it).
The food market is named “Halle Saint-Jean“, and the church is named “Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence“.
Food market Halle Saint-Jean and the Saint-Jean church in Valence
The Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence church
Inside the Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence church
The organ of the Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence churchSummary
Valence is a nice stopover place, particularly when you are travelling to or from the South of France, or if you are in the South West of Switzerland or North West of Italy.
The old city centre is nice to visit, particularly when the weather is mild. The main museum is worth a visit for an hour or two.
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