Fontenay Abbey church in Burgundy

Montbard – Fontenay Abbey

The Fontenay Abbey, located next to the city of Montbard  in Burgundy, is part of the Unesco World Heritage sites. Therefore you can expect something that is out of the ordinary, and you’ll not be disappointed.

The Cistercian Abbey is old, very old. It is the oldest Cistercian abbey in the world that has preserved its original form and that is still visitable. It was created in the year 1118 by Saint Bernard, making it a branch of the Citeaux order.

Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy entrance
Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy entrance

The Abbey is a few minutes away from the Montbard city centre. It lies in a valley alongside a small river with forests (which can all be visited for free).

You might recognise the place when you see it. It has featured in many movies, including the popular Cyrano de Bergerac.

Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy entrance
Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy entrance

The Abbey is now in private hands. You will need to pay €10 to visit the place, but trust me, it’s worth it. The Cistercian monks prescribed a life of poverty, therefore the buildings are very austere. The 200-odd monks who lived here used to elect their abbot, but in the 16th century, the king decided that he would elect the abbot, and since then the place was run down. By the time the French revolution came, there were only 12 monks left.

Dovecote at the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Dovecote at the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

The place got sold off in 1790 to Elie de Mongolfier (the family of the hot air balloon inventors) and turned the abbey into a paper-mill. In 1906 it was bought by Eduoard Aynard, the son-in-law, who undertook the restoration of the abbey. Today, it still remains part of the Aynard family.

In 1981, Unesco made it part of the World Heritage Sites.

Next to the 13th century dovecote you will find the dog kennels. The dogs belonged to the Duke of Burgundy who used them for hunting, and when he was not hunting, the dogs were cared for on these grounds.

Church of the Fontenay Abbey

The church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
The church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

From the outside, all the buildings have been restored properly. All the grime and slime of the paper-mills have been removed. But when you go inside….

Inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

…. it’s empty! The inside is yet again really well restored, but there is absolutely no furniture, nothing on the walls, not even a cross. The Cistercian monks lived a life of poverty, but not like this. Indeed, they did not have any decorations on the walls but they did have chairs to sit on, and tables to eat their meals on. During the war of religion, the French revolution and the turning the abbey into a factory, all furniture has disappeared.

It’s strange to enter a church and not see a single piece of wood…

Former altar of the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Former altar of the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

This is where the altar used to be. Empty! On the bottom right of the above photo you see the tomb of Knight Mello d’Epoisses and his wife.

Knight Mello d'Epoisses and his wife's tomb inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Knight Mello d’Epoisses and his wife’s tomb inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

These were Burgundy nobles (Epoise is a city not far away from the Abbey which is best known for its very smelly cheese). These two tombs are the only ones to be found in the church. Other noblemen and monks are buried in the cemetery next to the formal gardens (including Bishop Ebrard of Norwich, who fled persecution from the UK).

Our Lady of Fontenay Statue inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Our Lady of Fontenay Statue inside the church of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

This is the only statue you will find in the abbey, the “our lady of Fontenay”. Behind the statue is the door that leads to the cemetery (called the “door to the dead”).

Stairs to the dormitory of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Stairs to the dormitory of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

From within the church you will find the stairs leading to the monks’ dormitories.

Monks dormitory of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Monks dormitory of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

All 200 monks slept in the same room. The roof of the dormitory was made the only way they used to know how to make these kind of constructions; the hull of a boat turned upside down.

Mind you, there was no heating, and temperatures in Burgundy can drop to -20°C (-4°F) during the winter. More on their heating further down…

Monks dormitory of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Cloisters of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

The cloister is quite beautiful. It’s a rather large garden surrounded by arched walkways belonging to the buildings that are around the garden.

NOTE: Below is a 360° photo. To see more of this beautiful cloister click on the photo, keep your mouse clicked and move your mouse left/right/up/down (you can also zoom in by clicking on the + or –):

The cloister is the heart of the abbey, where monks would gather to read or meditate.

Warming room inside the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Warming room inside the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

On the other side of the cloister is the warming room and the chapter room (for gathering, reading and discussing practical daily tasks).

Only fireplace inside the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Only fireplace inside the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

Next door was the only heat allowed in the abbey (apart from the infirmary and the bread ovens). These two big fireplaces gave up some heat, and would warm up (slightly) the dormitory. That’s it! No central heating, no fireplaces in the bedrooms, eating halls, or anywhere else.

Formal gardens of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Formal gardens of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

One side of the abbey has a large garden, called the Formal Gardens. These are not part of the original abbey, and where put in by the new owners in 1996 by British landscaper Peter Holmes. On the far side of the gardens is where you will find the cemetery.

Infirmary of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Infirmary of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

On the other side of the gardens you will find the abbey’s infirmary.

The Forge

But the most important part of the abbey will be found on the right side of the abbey complex; the Forge.

Forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

The iron forge is housed in the large building that was constructed in the 12th century by the monks.

Forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

The monks extracted extracted iron ore from the nearby hills and worked the iron into tools which were then resold. But to do that requires a lot of force, and therefore the monks invented the very first hydraulic hammer! The abbey is believed to be one of the oldest metallurgical plants in Europe.. dating back to the 12th century.

Here is how the hydraulic hammer worked:

Watermill used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Watermill used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

The hydraulic hammer starts with a watermill located outside the forge building. The watermill’s wheel turns with the water streaming below it…..

Part of the hydraulic hammer used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Part of the hydraulic hammer used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

… which in its turn turns a shaft with pins on them (centre of the above shaft). These pins hit a beam ….

Part of the hydraulic hammer used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Part of the hydraulic hammer used by the forge of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

…. that lift the hammer up and then with gravity, falls down. Simple but very effective.

Fountain and fish lake of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Fountain and fish lake of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

Next to the forge is a small pond where the water from the mill goes. In the pond you’ll find enormous carp fish.

Bread oven of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy
Bread oven of the Fontenay Abbey in Montbard, Burgundy

And finally in one of the out-buildings you will find the bread ovens. The monks are totally self-sufficient, and that included the bread they ate.

Summary

This place is not part of the Unesco World Heritage Sites for nothing. It’s very special, especially taking into account one of the world’s first hydraulic hammers, and the whole place is beautifully restored. It’s worth a detour to go and see this place.

For more information about the abbey, click here.

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