Etretat view from the Southern cliffs

Etretat – Introduction

Etretat is Upper Normandy’s most popular tourist destination, particularly with the Parisians and locals. It is a small town (some 1500 inhabitants), but very picturesque and it has survived World War II almost intact. Its age can not be determined, but it is believed that it was there before the Vikings.

Like most coastal towns and cities in Upper Normandy, Etretat is sandwiched in between high cliffs. But in this case, the cliffs are the main attraction due to their form. Three cliffs have natural arches at their end. Two of them are clearly visible from the town’s beach.

Etretat's arch and needle cliffs, L'Arche and l'Aiguille of the Aval cliffs
Etretat’s arch and needle cliffs, L’Arche and l’Aiguille of the Aval cliffs

The arch was formed because of the strong currents, and a needle, 55 meters high is the most visible symbol of the town. Behind these cliffs is another one called Manneporte, an even bigger arch, but it can not be seen from the town, only from above.

Next to the arch is a grotto that can be seen and visited at low tide.

The top of the cliffs can be visited as well. A hiking path with steps has been established alongside the cliffs, bringing you to the top after a brisk hike. Your reward for the hike is a breathtaking view of the town and the cliffs.

On the same side, there is a beautifully located and old golf club (created in 1908) with some of the 18 golf holes located next to the cliffs. Imagine how many golf balls have disappeared in the sea. Click here to access the golf club’s web site.

Hiking path to the top of the Aval cliffs of Etretat with a view of the Manneporte cliff and arche
Hiking path to the top of the Aval cliffs of Etretat with a view of the Manneporte cliff and arch

NOTE: The hiking path is part of the GR21 hiking path, connecting Le Havre to Le Treport, a 180 kilometre hike!

The other cliffs, located on the opposite side is called Amont and it’s the smallest one of the three.

Amont cliffs and arch at Etretat
Amont cliffs and arch at Etretat

The beach, like elsewhere in Upper Normandy, is made out of pebbles, not sand. The beach is shared between sunbathers and fishers:

Fishing boats on the beach of Etretat
Fishing boats on the beach of Etretat

There is an active fishing fleet operating out of Etretat, but they are coastal fishers, and are dragged onto the beach when not fishing. In between the boats and at the other end you’ll find the sun worshippers:

Crowded beach of Etretat
Crowded beach of Etretat

In the summer it gets quite crowded, like the town itself.

Alongside the beach you will find a promenade which takes you alongside several restaurants and a casino:

North side of the Etretat beach promenade
North side of the Etretat beach promenade

On the other side of the promenade:

South side of the Etretat promenade
South side of the Etretat promenade

NOTE: Notice at the far side, at the cliffs, the hiker’s path to the top of the cliffs with a view of the town and the 3rd arch (Manneporte arch). The view from the hiker’s path is like this:

View from the North cliffs of Etretat
View from the North cliffs of Etretat

Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel

On the top of the cliffs on the above photo you see a small church. It’s the “Notre-Dame de la Garde” chapel:

Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel on the top of the Etretat cliffs
Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel on the top of the Etretat cliffs

The chapel was built by hand by the fishermen and sailors in 1854 who carried the stones and material on their back up to the grounds. The chapel is dedicated to sailors.

The view from the grounds in front of the church are breathtaking:

View from the chapel grounds of Etretat
View from the chapel grounds of Etretat

In the distance of the opposing cliff you can see the golf club grounds.

Next to the chapel is an amazing landscaped garden designed by a famous Russian landscape designer. The gardens are open to the public.

The Town

The town of Etretat is quite small and old but very busy. During the summer months it gets very busy and traffic jams are the norm. Parking is almost impossible, and the overflow parking lots outside the town fill up rapidly.

Busy town of Etretat
Busy town of Etretat

Most of the streets in the town are one-way so it becomes a Herculean task to enter the town and park a car. Many of the houses and buildings inside the town are very old and made out of wood:

House of the Salamander

Old wooden hotel in Etretat
Old wooden hotel in Etretat

The photo above is that of one of the “oldest-looking” buildings in Etretat which also happens to be a hotel. Yes, you can sleep in the old rooms (but the beds and furniture are more recent, as are the toilets).

However, it’s not as old as it looks… in fact it’s a copy of the House of the Salamander house in Lisieux which got bombed and destroyed during WWII. The inverted copy of the house was built in Etretat in 1912.

Several of the restaurants are quite interesting to see, some inside old buildings.

Old tavern in Etretat
Old tavern in Etretat

This is an old tavern dating back to 1851 serving nice food. It was named after the two owner’s first name, which happened to be the same; Augustin.

On the main square (opposite of the tavern) is a strange structure. it is called “Les Halles” (the halls) and it’s a marketplace.

Etretat's Les Halles market building
Etretat’s Les Halles market building

The building resembles a church, but it’s a market. Inside there are a few shops:

inside Etretat's Les Halles market shops
inside Etretat’s Les Halles market shops

But it wasn’t always a market. It started life as a farm, and during World War I the place was used as hospital for the Allied troops, and during World War II the place was used for the US Soldiers on R &R (the Pall Mall Camp).

Etretat's WWII Memorial plaque
Etretat’s WWII Memorial plaque

The main church of Etretat (Notre-Dame, built in the 12th century) has a graveyard for Commonwealth soldiers who died during WWII.

Several chateaux and manors are present in the town, all located in the hills. Several have been turned into luxury hotels. The town has been the host to many celebrities (it is also the “birthplace” of the make-believe gentleman burglar Arsin Lupin  described in many novels) including the writer Guy de Maupassant, the painters Claude Monet and Henri Matisse and the former French president Rene Coty. Several (French) movies were made in the town.

A beautiful golf course, built in 1908, is located on the top of the cliffs with breathtaking views and a good restaurant.

Summary

Etretat is a place to visit, but getting there, and more importantly, parking your car there is not going to be easy since it’s a very popular place to visit, especially during weekends.

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